Diane Abernathy B.S., C.H.S., C.A.

The Essentials of Essential Oils

Essential oils are also called volatile oils. They are volatile to the air, odorous and although called oil, are not fatty. One of the ways used to test essential oils to see if they are adulterated is to rub them between your fingers, they should not be oily.

Plants have their own preference at to where they store their essential oils:

  • Leaves: mint, melissa, rosemary
  • Flower: lavender, rose, jasmine
  • Bark: cinnamon, sandalwood
  • Resin: frankincense, myrrh
  • Rind: lemon, orange
  • Root: valerian, vetivert

Their chemistry is complex, they are composed of many different chemical compounds. The most common being alcohols, aldehydes, acids, esters, lactones, hydrocarbons, phenols and ketones. They will also vary considerably depending upon the geographic origin, environmental conditions, harvesting, extraction and storage methods.

The extraction methods vary depending upon the plant. Distillation, by steam or water is the most important method. They may be squeezed as with lemon and orange peels. Enfleurage is an old method of extraction of dissolving the essential oil into a fatty substance. Extraction is the most widely used modern method to extract oils from flowers, and consists of dissolving the oils in a solvent such as petroleum, ether or benzene and then evaporating away the solvent.

Oils vary in strength and quality. Know your supplier, because it is difficult for the average person to tell about the quality of an oil. Oils vary widely in cost, depending on the amount of plant material it takes to produce the oil. If they are too cheap or all the same price, beware. Particularly if rose and jasmine are inexpensive, they can not be pure. They may be dilutes, that is mixed with an oil, probably jojoba to cheapen them, but give the consumer the real oil at an affordable price. Perfume oils are not the real thing, they may smell fine and be okay for your purposes, but for true therapeutics, they are not appropriate.

Store in a cool, dark place. They will last several years. Essential oils do not go “bad”, but just get weaker. I have some 10 year old patchouli and sandalwood and they smell very good.

Most oils are highly antiseptic, both upon contact and as a vapor. Some of the strongest antibacterial oils are lemon, thyme, juniper, lavender, eucalyptus, sandalwood, peppermint, rosemary and tea tree. Antifungal oils are lavender, tea tree, chamomile, thyme and myrrh. Antiviral activity can be expected from garlic, lavender and tea tree.

How to Use Essential Oils

Scenting the air: candles (put drops in the melted wax in the top of the candle), light bulbs, candle or electric diffusers, olive oil lamps, unglazed clay pots, cotton balls, room sprays, steam vaporizer

Baths: 5 to 10 drops—can do full bath, hand or foot bath and sitz bath

Shower: up to 8 drops on sponge or cloth, rub on body under water

Insect repellent: 3 parts rubbing alcohol to one part essential oil, such as citronella, pennyroyal or lavender. Shake before using.

Inhalant: 3 to 12 drops in a steaming kettle

Facial Steam: 5 to 15 drops in a steaming kettle

Neat: Some essential oils can be used neet or straight from the bottle, such as lavender on burns or insect bites. Many oils, however, are too strong to be used straight on the skin, and need to be diluted in a carrier oil.

Household disinfectant: Add 5 to 15 drops to your cleaning or mop water.

Smelling salts: Lavender or peppermint can be helpful

Oral: Not usually recommended without supervision of a practitioner. Dosage varies considerably depending on the particular oil, 2 to 5 drops being a common dosage administered on a sugar cube or in honey.

Perfumes: Used as singles or blends, either neet or as perfume oil with jojoba oil as a carrier or base oil.

Oil based products: Essential oil mix with oils better than any other solvent. They are used extensively in medicinal and cosmetic products, both commercially and in home produced creams, lotions, balms and salves. Besides the choice of essential oils used, the quality and use of the product is strongly determined by the choice of carrier oil.

Massage and bath oil: 1 to 30 drops per ounce, to “smell” or as therapeutically desired. 1 to 5 drops per teaspoon.

Carrier Oils

Carrier oils are what the oils are called that essential oils are mixed or diluted with. A good quality vegetable derived oil is the best choice. I recommend that you avoid mineral oil (which is used in most baby oils), as it tends to destroy the fat soluble vitamins A, D E, K and F as it is absorbed and metabolized.

Almond Oil: This is a nourishing, non-drying and demulcent oil and is nearest to the oil in the skin. It has a light aroma, and makes an excellent cosmetic or massage oil for all skin types.

Jojobe: Comes from the shrub jojoba (simmondsia chinensis), and is good for all skin types, especially ageing skin. It is different from other seed oils and is barely oily, more waxy in texture. It is a fine, penetrating, odorless oil, stable and very long lasting. It is used as a single oil for perfume base; and usually used about 10% in cosmetic oils.

Olive: A pale yellow or light greenish oil with a slight characteristic odor, that is nutritive, demulcent and considered healing in it’s own right. It is the best for medicinal preparations like healing salves, but too oily for straight cosmetic or massage purposes and must be mixed with other oils.

Sesame: A pale yellow and almost odorless oil that is considered important in the Aurvedic healing discipline. A good lubricant especially for rheumatic conditions and is a natural cleanser.

Good oils can be obtained at herb and natural food stores, cold pressed oils being the best. They do require refrigeration to help prevent their becoming rancid. You can also extend their life by adding vitamin E and tincture of benzoin.

  • ¼ teaspoon tincture of benzoin to one cup oil
  • 500 I.U. Vitamin E to one cup oil

Some commercial body lotions or creams, like Flower Essence Service’s Self Heal Cream, can have essential oils of your choice mixed into the product. Add just a few drops at a time and stir well.

Infused Oils: An infused oil is basically prepared by heating the base oil and herb together and extracting the essential elements from the plant into the oil. The plants can be dried and finely crushed; or fresh, allowed to wilt overnight and chopped finely. For the solar method they are put into a jar, covered with oil and set in the sun for two weeks, shake daily.

A quick method is to put the herbs and oil into a heavy kettle or waterbath over low heat and simmer until the herbs are crisp.

Toxicity of Essential Oils

All essential oils should be used with caution. Side effects are caused primarily by overdosing or incorrect administration. Most oils should not be used neet on the skin, they can cause skin irritation. Some people develop a skin sensitivity such as a dermatitis type rash, after prolonged use of an oil. Mucus membranes are particularly sensitive.

Oils containing phenols, such as thyme, cinnamon, clove, basil, oregano and savory, should be used with care. Liver toxicity may occur if used in high doses for an extended time. Another chemical group that causes problems are the ketones, contained in mugwort, sage, tansy, thuja, wormwood pennyroyal and hyssop oils.

Oils to use with caution:
Basil* Bergamot
Camphor* Cedarwood*
Cinnamon Clove
Eucalyptus Hyssop*
Mugwort* Oregano
Parsley* Pennyroyal*
Peppermint Rosemary
Rue* Sage*
Sassafras Tansy*
Thuja* Thyme
Wormwood*
* Do not use when pregnant or nursing, also including clary sage, marjoram and myrrh.

My Favorite Oils:

Bergamot-antiseptic, antispasmodic, herpes sores, urinary tract infection, draws boils, depression, anxiety and tension. Used in perfumery and skin care, for oily skin and acne. Can cause photosensitivity.

Birch– Analgesic, arthritis, muscular and articular pains, kidney and urinary tract disorders.

Cinnamon-Antiseptic, antispasmodic, digestive stimulant, inhalation for respiratory conditions, stimulant, warming.

Clary Sage-Antidepressant, antispasmodic, general tonic, euphoric, relaxing, warming, relieves stress, menstrual cramps, fixative. Nice relaxing bath.

Clove-Analgesic, antiseptic, stimulant, stomachic, carminative, tooth aches. Used in mosquito and clothes moth repellant.

Eucalyptus-Antiseptic (particularly of respiratory and urinary tract), anti-viral, sooths coughs and bronchitis, antirheumatic.

Juniper-Antiseptic, analgesic (rheumatic pain), nervine, sedative, tonic, acne, eczema and other skin rashes. Makes a good household disinfectant.

Lavender-Number one first aid oil, can be used neet. Antiseptic, analgesic, antiviral, antifungal, antidepressant, hypotensive, insecticide. It is soothing, calming, balancing, normalizing and aids sleep. Can be used for burns, skin rashes, colds, sinus problems, headache (rub on temples), muscular and rheumatic pain, menstrual pain, neutralizes poison of insect and snake bites. Used in perfumery and skin care, acne and hair care.

Lemon-Antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, carminative, digestive, hypotensive, sedative, immuno-stimulant (supports white blood cells).

Melissa-Antidepressant, antispasmodic, nervine, sedative, tonic, hypotensive, emmenagogue, regulates menstrual cycle.

Peppermint-Antiseptic, antispasmodic, analgesic, stomachic, nausea, vomiting, respiratory disorders, fevers, colds. Cephalic, stimulates brain and aids clear thinking. Smelling salts for shock.

Patchouli-Antiseptic, antidepressant, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, tonic. Perfumery, cosmetics, acne, eczema, athletes foot.

Rosemary-Antiseptic, analgesic, antispasmodic, tonic for heart, liver and gallbladder, lowers cholesterol. nerve stimulant, respiratory, colds, sinus, headaches, muscular pain. Cephalic, stimulant, improves memory and mental clarity.

Sandalwood-Antiseptic, antispasmodic, antidepressant, sedative, tonic, respiratory, kidney stimulant. Perfumery, fixative, cosmetic use, skin care for all skin types, aphrodisiac.

Thyme-Antiseptic, antispasmodic, antifungal, antivenomous, anxiety, nervousness, coughs, colds, circulatory disorders,raises blood pressure, digestive and urinary disinfectant, rheumatic pain. Cephalic, improves memory.

Tea Tree-Antibiotic, antifungal, antiviral, immuno-stimulant, sinus, cold sores, shingles, acne.

Ylang Ylang-Antiseptic, antidepressant, calming hypotensive, sedative. Used to calm strong emotions, shock, fright, anxiety, anger. Perfumery, cosmetic for oily and dry skin, aphrodisiac.